CONTEMPORARY ART PHILIPPINES - Jaime Laya

JAIME LAYA: A COLLECTOR'S JOURNEY
By Stephanie Dychiu

Philanthropist, cultural vanguard, and sometime governor of the Central Bank of the Philippines, Dr. Jaime Laya shares a piece of his collector's mind.

The disease is called collectivitis, and it is infectious and incurable.

Dr. Jaime Laya caught it at a young age, when his father foisted a shoebox-full of used envelopes on him, stamps still attached, to keep him busy and out of trouble. “Since then,” Laya writes in his book Consuming Passions, “I’ve had both continuing passions and casual flings with all sorts of collectibles—animal, vegetable, and mineral.”



The chairmanship of his high school philatelic society was his first managerial role, foretelling an epic future in art and antique collecting that would run parallel with his achievements in business, education, and public service. Retracing these twin paths leaves one feeling that Laya always seemed to be at the right place at the right time, with an enviable knack for spotting talent.

He was certainly born at the right place at the right time. His father Juan wrote the award-winning Commonwealth-era novel His Native Soil, and was friends with the popular painters of his time—Amorsolo, Manansala, and Ocampo. Art and nationalism were fixtures in Laya’s childhood millieu, but he grew up to be . . . an accountant. In the sixties, he became a professor at the College of Business Administration of the University of the Philippines. He struck up friendships with fellow teacher Jose Joya, and radical artist Ang Kiukok. When he became dean of the UP school of business, he cut “ex-deals” with the future masters—paintings for tax deductions—to perk up the school’s dreary walls. In his own office, he hung a market scene bought for P35. The painter was Cesar Buenaventura.

In the mid-seventies, Laya became Budget Minister. To spruce up his department’s mind-numbing annual report, he got an artist to make drawings for the cover. The artist was Onib Olmedo. Thanks to collectivitis, Laya had the foresight to save the original sketches for posterity.

In 1981, he was appointed Governor of the Central Bank and Chairman of the Monetary Board. While grappling with the Balance of Payments deficit, the Latin American debt crisis, and various emergencies wrought by the assassination of Ninoy Aquino, he went on an art acquisition mission (“statistics on growth and trade are not enough to know a country and its people”). Cesar Legaspi, Arturo Luz, Anita Magsaysay-Ho, and Ramon Olazo were prevailed upon to donate works. Priceless pieces from all over the country were rescued from mite, mold, and mildew, such as the only signed oil painting of Damian Domingo found in a bodega of the Paterno family, and a rare interaction work by H.R. Ocampo’s Saturday group of artists, signed by “half a dozen of the brightest lights of Philippine art”, gathering dust at Rustan’s Galerie Bleue. Gold pieces dating back to the pre-Hispanic barter trade were also added to the Central Bank’s Money Museum.

For these and other accomplishments as Chairman of the Intramuros Administration and the National Commission for Culture and Arts, Laya is lauded as the man who gave the nation palpable reminders of its cultural identity.

It was all serendipitous, of course. Laya did not consciously set out to amass the collections he built for public and private enjoyment. In his book, he jokingly ascribes collectivitis to a “hunting gene” that causes people to “diligently search for paint on fraying canvas”, “gurgle over chipped little jars with brown spots”, and “gleefully drag home cannon, bell, plow, or creaky bed”. In prehistoric times, homo erectus stalked rhino and lugged it to his cave. Today, Laya snares “armless, legless, sometimes headless” santos to bring home.

“I was always collecting one thing or another, beginning with stamps, coins, then books,” he says on the afternoon of our visit at his office in Philtrust Bank, where he currently serves as chairman. “The first paintings I ever saw were from my grandmother. She had these two little amateur paintings, done by a friend. Yun ang tinitignan ko nung maliit ako.” The first painting he bought was the 35-peso Cesar Buenaventura that hung in his office in UP. It was followed by an Amorsolo, a wedding gift to Laya and his wife.

Naturally, collectivitis made Laya itch to find companions for his lonely Amorsolo. Budget was tight, so he researched before making any purchases. He took note of the pieces art galleries chose to exhibit, and observed what knowledgeable friends bought. He studied the works that won competitions. He played secret judge at shows, comparing his personal picks with the works critics praised or vilified in the newspapers.

“People were more fortunate before, when there were real art critics in the newspapers,” he says. “Today, what’s published is simply a biography of the artist, and a plain description of the exhibit. ‘This gallery opened, this artist exhibited, he’s a graduate of UP, or UST, he’s exhibited before, and he paints flowers.’ Ganun lang. There’s no judgment. Before, we had critics like Leo Benesa and Rod Paras-Perez. They didn’t care who got mad at them. They just said what appealed to them and what did not. And it helped develop the judgment of readers like me who were uninformed. This is why Contemporary Art Philippines is an important contribution. Through it, people can have an idea of what is good or bad. They don’t necessarily have to believe it, but at least they will see how other people think.”

Art enthusiasts feel a constant need to have their judgment validated, and Laya says even he still feels that need up to now. Price is the most obvious indicator of value, but his rule these days is “maganda at mura”. Better to acquire a nice work by an unknown, than a lousy work by a famous name. In his book, he cautions against “artists not above mounting their own publicity campaigns”, who build careers out of media hype. He also laments the practice of producing “large-format books lavishly illustrated in color with so-so works”, done by some dealers to hock mediocre work to people who go for “book pieces”.

With these ploys proliferating, what becomes of authenticity in the art market? “That’s the traditional question that has never been answered,” Laya chuckles. “Rembrandt, for instance, was very popular in the early stages, but eventually, nobody bought his works anymore. In the end, it was his works that nobody wanted that stood the test of time. Same with Van Gogh. In his lifetime, I think he sold only one painting, but now he is the record-breaker. So to me, collectors should just collect what they like, and painters should paint what they think is best.” He says he has never bought a painting he didn’t like but thought would appreciate in value. “Swerte na lang that most of them did.”

Wish lists no longer plague him. “Painting is just something I enjoy. Okay lang kahit wala akong makita. In fact, better nga kung wala akong mabili eh, at least the money is still with me! If I find something, I’m happy. If I don’t find something, I’m not unhappy.”

Things have a way of finding their way to him, anyway. “Sometimes it takes twenty years. There was one watercolor I saw in a book printed in 1958. Nakalagay doon kung sino may-ari. I kept track of it. Painted by Jose Honorato Lozano, a nineteenth century artist. It took thirty years. Tinatandaan ko lang siya. Serendipity lang naman yan.” He points to a small Santo Niño kept under glass on one table in his office. “I saw that in a book on Philippine religious imagery by Fernando Zobel in the late sixties. I got it in the eighties. Twenty years. Inabangan ko lang siya.” How to hunt for a random relic seen in a random book? “Lagi mo lang i-on ang radar mo, baka sakaling nandiyan. When I’m really interested in something, I remember. I don’t necessarily pursue, but I remember. And then"—the power of visualization—"it shows up."

Will he ever open more of his personal collection to the public? “Well . . . there are better things in the Intramuros Museum, but nobody goes there,” he hedges. “How many visitors are there in the National Museum? You go there at any one time, siguro you have less than a dozen willing visitors. Yung mga unwilling, yun ang mga estudyante na nakapila na ikot ng ikot.” And why is that? What prevents art from gaining a broader audience? “First, it’s a matter of education. Why does the elite appreciate art but the masa does not? Because teachers in public schools are less interested in art than teachers in private schools. Maybe the thing to do is to improve teacher education, so it has more elements of art and culture. Second, maybe the media should have greater coverage of real art criticism. Newspapers, television, they cover fashion and cooking very well, they cover home décor, makeup, skin improvement. Maybe they should also have greater coverage for fine arts. Interiors is a good starting point, because you have visual arts there.”

Laya has accummulated countless masterpieces for the national patrimony as well as his personal collection, but one of his top three favorites is still the amateur painting that fascinated him as a boy. “It shows a woman walking toward the viewer on a street. May bamboo trees, may nipa hut. Very ordinary. But it reminds me of my grandmother.”

Collectibles, he says, are “keys to memory”, “handed by someone reaching across time and eternity”. This thought is echoed in the Juan Luna pen-and-ink stationery design he donated to the Central Bank many years ago. It shows a country girl holding a book with the words non omnis moriar—“not all of me shall die”—taken from a verse Horace wrote two thousand years ago to equate his poetry with immortality:

I have created a monument more lasting than bronze,
And higher than the royal site of the pyramids,
Which neither harsh rains nor the wild north wind can erode,
Nor the countless succession of years,
And the flight of the seasons.
Not all of me shall die,
My praise shall grow and never end.

Away from the critics and the pundits and the galleries and the auction houses, collecting, like all art, is simply a yearning to remember and be remembered. Nearly fifty years since he bought his first painting, Laya is far from done. At his office, we spot a freshly bought canvas leaning sheepishly against one wall, still swathed in bubble wrap. “The normal person stops adding to his paintings when his house and office walls are full,” he writes in his book, “but collectors are not always normal. Some follow the jeepney driver rule: there is always room for one more.”

(This article originally appeared in the April-May 2009 issue of Contemporary Art Philippines magazine.)
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FILGOLF - Claude Tayag on Celebrity Chefs and Cooking as Art

(NOTE: This interview was done about one month after Anthony Bourdain shot an episode of No Reservations in the Philippines. Below are the clips of Bourdain's visit with Claude in Pampanga, followed by an excerpt from the Filgolf interview with Claude.)





NO STARVING ARTIST
By Stephanie Dychiu


Painter-sculptor-chef Claude Tayag talks about celebrity chefs, the painting he’ll never sell, and what he wants for his last meal.

For The Talented Mr. Tayag, all creativity is the same. Only the medium changes. At his Bale Dutung (house of wood) in Angeles City, all the world’s a stage; paint, wood, and food are its players. They have their exits and their entrances, they play many parts. And at the center is the force that holds everything in orbit, the self-taught-therefore-freewheeling Claude, and his darleng Mary Ann.

Some people think if they can cook, they can run a restaurant. You don’t have a restaurant. You see the difference. One is art, the other is business.
Maybe I’m not ready, or maybe that’s one of my long-term . . . I’m happy where I am. It’s tempting. I’m not keeping it closed. But not now. Dami kong offers sa mga mall, pero di ko pa kaya.

It’s not just about restaurants anymore. It’s all about chef branding now—books, newspaper columns, TV segments, product endorsements. So many people going to culinary school. Chefs are the new artistas. Artistas are becoming chefs.
Being a chef now is a respectable profession. Noong araw, kusinero ka lang. Now, there’s no longer a social barrier. Inumpisahan din nila Margarita Fores. It’s also all these food shows on cable TV. It’s gotten glamorous. What people don’t realize is, just because you graduated from . . .

. . . a French-sounding school?
You still have to work hard. Young chefs don’t have that panlasa yet. They have learned the technique, but they have not yet learned the art. But over time, if they are really into it . . .

What is art and what is technique, when it comes to cooking?
Technique is the physical aspect. The cutting, the preparation, the sauté, the steaming. The art is the creation, the alchemy. What is a good combination with what? Yung timpla. Hindi mo naaaral yun sa cookbook. If you can follow a recipe, you are a cook. But you are not an artist.

When can you call yourself an artist?
When you create your own dish. When you’re no longer just following. Anthony Bourdain, who was here, admits that he was never an artist. He was just a cook, doing line work. Line work is assembling the salad, making the sauces.

Anthony Bourdain hates celebrity chefs and the Food Network. Rachael Ray and Rocco Di Spirito especially. He doesn’t see himself as one of them.
The problem is when you spend more time facing the cameras than working in the kitchen. Hindi ka nahahasa. To develop the art, you have to experiment. And if you’re working in a restaurant, you cannot do that, unless you are the owner. In an established restaurant, people go for consistency, because they have a favorite dish, and you cannot change it. It can be frustrating. If you want to be an artist, you experiment at home. People get to know you, maybe through catering, they invite you to do this or that.

There’s this book called My Last Supper. Fifty famous chefs talking about what they would eat if it was their last meal. What would be yours and where would you eat it?
Parang sa ano yan, sa Bilibid, nasa Death Row na.

Sabi ng warden pwede ka pumili kung saan ka kakain, basta bigyan mo siya.
Maybe in Baguio, in the middle of John Hay, para malamig. No, wait, magsesebo ang pagkain. Ayoko. By the beach na lang. A lot of sinugba, but lechon is number one. Not just any lechon. The one stuffed with lemongrass. Not Cebu lechon, I find that too salty. The one with tanglad, lemongrass, leeks, garlic, sampaloc leaves. Very aromatic.

Plain rice or garlic rice?
Lechon lang. With sinamak. Not the liver sauce. But I want to have control over the fire. ‘Pag tinanggal mo na ang balat, you grill it again. Para masunog ang taba, ma-tusta. Then, maybe a bottle of red wine, hangga’t sa malasing ako. Then, I will pass out. Yun na. I die happy.

Pinoy food pa rin, up to your last meal. A lot of the chefs in My Last Supper also chose their native food. Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding for Gordon Ramsay. Pasta and bruschetta for Mario Batali. Sushi for Nobu Matsuhisa. Blowfish for Masa Takayama.
We have so many choices here now. Every ethnic cuisine. But there’s also a revival of interest in Filipino regional cuisine. Have you ever heard anyone say ‘I’m craving for fusion food’? What kind of food is that? It’s nice to eat, but at the end of the meal, you don’t remember what you ate. So, it goes back to ethnic. Kanya-kanya. ‘Pag Chinese, ganyan. ‘Pag Japanese, ganyan. That’s the mission of the Kulinarya book, to set the standard for Filipino cuisine. In the end, lahat tayo, we crave for our own.

(End of excerpt. For full story, read the May-June 2009 issue of Filgolf magazine.)
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LIVING ASIA CHANNEL - Caramoan Islands

The Caramoan Peninsula is on the northeastern tip of the province of Camarines Sur.

(Excerpts from video narrative)

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THE LURE OF CAMSUR
by Stephanie Dychiu

It is a story that has often been told. The story of a secluded island, ringed with powdery white sand, floating on a sea of clear bluegreen water. Behind the shroud of myth it lay quietly, shielded from the outside world by the absence of modern comforts. A secret paradise known only to locals. Until one day, it is discovered by the West, and word spreads, and the island is catapulted into instant celebrity.

This is the story of nearly every famous beach in the Philippines, and it is the story of the once impenetrable islands off the Caramoan Peninsula.

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The journey to Caramoan from Naga begins with a 90-minute land trip to San Jose, where the port of Sabang is located. From Sabang, boats travel two hours to Guijalo Port in Caramoan.

Some travelers make a side trip to Aguirangan Island on the way to Caramoan. This uninhabited island is only 30 minutes away from Sabang Port, and is a popular excursion site. Its clean nipa huts are maintained by village leaders from the mainland town of Presentacion.

Upon docking in Guijalo Port in Caramoan, a 45-minute drive leads to Gota Beach near the tip of the Caramoan Peninsula. This is the jump-off point for exploring the islands of Caramoan.

Caramoan rose to international fame after word got out that the French edition of the TV show “Survivor” was shooting an entire season in the islands. It is hard to imagine how a place of such immense beauty was able to evade the spotlight for so long. No pushy touts and tiki bars taint its beaches. No shoddy resorts shatter the serenity of its coasts. Instead, there are soaring limestone cliffs, quiet coves, and immaculate islands that hark back to a more primeval time.

The Gota Village Resort opened its doors to the public after its first occupants, the Survivor TV crew, concluded their exclusive stay at the end of a three-month shoot. The wooden cabins the French crew stayed in are now available to tourists.


The name Gota comes from the phrase “Gota de Leche”, which means “drop of milk”. This was the original name of Caramoan, which was inspired by the milkdrop-shaped stalagmites in the area.

Beside Gota Beach is Hunungan. The cove in front of this beach is exceedingly calm because it is sheltered by a small island that is close enough to swim to. A fifteen-minute boat ride from Gota is Matukad Island. The white sand here is as soft as finely milled mineral powder. Near Matukad is Lahus Island, a narrow strip of beach that is open on two sides, and looks like a land bridge connecting two small islands.

Farther away from Gota, Pitogo Island has a beach made up of stones instead of sand. Sabitang Laya has a very long white beach. Cutivas is the farthest among all the islands. But the most intriguing of all is Tayak, which has a mysterious lagoon gaping at its navel. This lagoon has a combination of fresh water and salt water that has yielded a combination of fresh and salt water fish.

Cruising around the islands of Caramoan, the inevitable questions arise—how long will this paradise last? Will it survive the onslaught of tourism?

Comparisons have been made to other islands in the Philippines that are now collapsing under the weight of overdevelopment. The people of CamSur are adamant that Caramoan will not suffer the same fate. Exacting standards have been set for building and design. Seasoned masterplanners have been hired to ensure all structures blend with the terrain. Sewage treatment, water recycling, and local employment have been made mandatory. There is talk of limiting the building of resorts to the mainland, so Caramoan’s islands remain untouched.

And yet, Caramoan’s story is a story that has been heard before. The story of a secluded island, ringed with powdery white sand, shielded from the outside world, until it is catapulted into instant celebrity. Nothing is ever the same again after that.

But Caramoan’s story has also just begun. The cliffs and the coves, the mangroves and the mountains, still stand as regally as when they first welled up from the earth at the dawn of time.

Open your eyes, look at them closely, and remember what you see.
This is the way it has always been. And the way it should always be.
(End of excerpt)
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MARIE CLAIRE - Manila's Park Avenue Gangstas




Editor's Letter, Marie Claire, January 2009:
. . . about her story 'New Lives for Teen Gangs', Stephanie Dychiu says, "meeting the Park Avenue gangstas was a reminder that change and hope don't always have to come in big sweeping moments--they can take place in small acts aimed at one person at a time." A group called Community and Family Services International whose spokesperson is comedienne/actress Tessie Tomas helps these kids change the course of their future. Adds Stephanie, "When you realize how little it takes to give people that first break they need to better their lives, it's almost embarassing to keep whining about the ills of the world. Because you know there's something you can do about it." Ouch . . .

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Original title of this article: "One of the Gang".
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NEW LIVES FOR TEEN GANGS
By Stephanie Dychiu


Named after New York City’s wealthiest address, Park Avenue in Pasay City is a narrow side street where teen royalty go by the names Bad Boi and Shawtababee instead of Blair and Serena. Only 15 minutes by MRT/LRT from the real Park Avenue of Metro Manila (Ayala Avenue in Makati), Park Avenue, Pasay is a parallel universe where fortunes are made not on the stock market but on the Libertad Market, and social status is attained not through money and pedigree but through brute strength and a flair for rap.

AWAY-ALAK
Typical of most mean streets that make up the underbelly of the metropolis, the alleys around Park Avenue are patrolled by youth gangs who are fiercely protective of their turf. Here, traditional trappings of civility such as work, school, and family have a long history of failure, so the gangsta becomes the surrogate that brings identity and structure to the lives of the out-of-school and out-of-work. Furthermore, when all it takes to be the victim of a brawl is to walk past someone who is “lasing, tapos nayabangan sayo”, it makes sense to join a group sworn to mutually protect each other before the violence actually happens.

“Minsan may atraso talaga, pero madalas, away-alak lang,” says Melanie*, 24, a native of the area who joined the West Side Mobstahs* at age 15. “’Pag naka-inom ka, matapang ka.” Where does a tambay get money to buy booze? She nods toward the Libertad Market. “Madaling dumiskarte diyan. Halimbawa, may namili. Buhatin mo yun. Bibigyan ka ng P20 o P60. Yung iba, humihingi ng ulam sa mga nagtitinda, tapos binebenta nila.”

A skirmish her cousin got into in a recent fiesta shows how trouble can start randomly when tambays get soused. “Nag-iinuman sa labas, kasi may videoke dun. May nagpaputok ng baril. Warning shot lang, pataas ang putok. Yung pinsan ko, lasing, lumabas. Naghahamon ng away. Pinagsusuntok yung iba. E, siempre, may gang, e. Yung pinakamatapang sa kanila, nakita. Sinugod. Hanggang ngayon hindi siya makapunta dun.”

STARTER VS. FOUNDER
“Yung taga-umpisa ng banat, ang tawag diyan Starter,” Melanie continues. In a fight, the Starter throws the first punch (or takes the first blows, if on the defensive). Seems like a role few people would want, but Starters actually like their posts because it gives them power over other members.

The Starter, however, is not top dog. “Yung pinaka-lider, ang tawag Founder.” How does one become a Founder? “Maghahanap ka ng grupo mo.”

Launching a new gang is no different from launching a new shampoo. First, create a distinct brand identity: “May sign-sign, minsan tattoo.” Second, build brand awareness: “’Pag naglalakad, isigaw mo ang pangalan ng gangsta. ‘O, ano ako. . .!’ Ganyan.” Third, reinforce brand recall by popularizing a slogan or jingle. “May ginagawang mga kanta, mga rap. Kumakalat. Naririnig na lang dito.” Finally, demonstrate superior product performance: “Pakita mo matapang ka. ‘Pag hinamon ka, patulan mo kaysa masaktan ka.”

How will a gang leader know his campaign has succeeded? “’Pag pinaguusapan na siya. ‘Pag naririnig na ng mga bata.”

HIRAP, SARAP?
When females want to join a gang, Melanie says the Founder usually gives them two choices: “Hirap o sarap. Yung hirap, sampal, 15 times. Yung sarap, sex.” The preferred choice? “Siempre sarap na kaysa maghirap. Kaya maraming babae na nagiging pokpok.” An older cousin of Melanie was already a member of the West Side Mobstahs when she was initiated. “Sinalo ako ng pinsan ko. Siya ang nagpa-sampal.”

For the all-male Real Pinoy Tribe*, hirap is the only route to becoming a member. “Ang ginawa sa amin ‘jump-in’. Ginulpi kami for 30 seconds,” says Jason*, 19. He joined the gang at age 15. “Six kami nun, tapos mga 20 katao bumugbog sa amin. Hinika nga ako nun.” The gang has rules to prevent serious injury during hazing. The head, neck, and face are off limits. “’Pag tinamaan ka dun, pwede kang sumigaw na ‘Foul!’ Stop na yun, kahit wala pang 30 seconds.”

Why go through all that just to be part of a gang? “Gusto ko kasi maranasan kung paano magkaroon ng power sa isang lugar.” That power comes at a price. Like NATO, gang members are bound to a mutual defense pact that views an attack on one as an attack on all. “Kahit wala kang ginagawa, pero yung iba mong kasama may atraso, pwede ka nang gulpihin.”

Hence the importance of allying oneself with the right leader. “Ang basehan namin, yung nandiyan para sa amin lagi,” says Jason. “Kasi, ‘pag may kaaway kami sa school, kung hindi na namin kaya i-handle, tinatawag namin siya. ‘Rekta na yan. To the rescue na siya.”

“MANNY PACQUIAO”
The rescuer Jason is referring to is Randy*, 21, the leader of their branch of the Real Pinoy Tribe in Pasay (the gang has several chapters spread across Metro Manila). “Siya ang Manny Pacquiao namin.”

Small, quiet, and soft-spoken, Randy at first glance would never be mistaken for a gang leader. In fact, he objects to the title. “Walang leader, mas ahead lang,” he says, attributing his seniority to having joined the gang before the others.

His reason for joining: “Marami akong nakikilala, kahit sa Cavite, kahit sa ibang bansa. Sa Korea, sa Japan. Dito rin sila dati. May mga Mexicano din, sa L.A.

The Real Pinoy Tribe does not allow females to become members. “Pinagmumulan kasi lagi ng away.”

The gang activities, as Randy describes them, seem harmless enough. “Inuman three times a week. Basketball. Computer.” How then does trouble start? “’Pag ginugulo kami ng mga taga ibang lugar. Bigla na lang pupunta diyan, maghahagis ng bote. Makikipag-away.”

It was in this arbitrary manner that a major blood feud erupted around one year ago. The feud was so intense, it drove Randy to embrace his current lie-low status.

RESBAK
It all started when a man on a motorcycle went to the gang’s turf pretending he needed to ask something. “Lumapit ang isang kasama ko,” recounts Randy. “Bigla na lang may binunot, kutsilyo o ice pick yata. Nakita ng isa pang kasama ko. May hawak siya na fluorescent na itatapon na sana niya. Pinalo niya sa mukha ng naka-motor. Tapos mga limang bote ng Emperador. Pinagtanggol niya lang yung kasama namin.”

The man on the motorbike promptly went to his own gang to report the attack. “Nagsumbong din sa pulis, kasi maimpluwensiya siya dun, may kamag-anak yata siya. Na-ospital siya, puro tahi ang mukha. Dinemanda kami.” Randy and his friends went into hiding. The matter with the police was settled only after Randy’s older brother, a seaman, paid P26,000 to get him off the hook. “Ayaw ng kuya ko na makulong ako.”

Things did not end with the police. There was street justice to contend with. “Yung resbak nun, matindi,” says Jason. “May pinatay sa amin.” Late one night, while the gang was hanging out on their street, a man armed with a sumpak, or homemade shotgun, came and fired several shots. As the most prominent member of the gang, Randy was one of his main targets. But it was someone else who was killed. “Parang araw na talaga niya,” Randy philosophizes. “Twelve gauge yung shotgun, kumakalat ang buletas nun. Isang buletas lang ang tumama—sa kanya.”

Reprisal was swift. A hit squad was dispatched to hunt down the gunman. He wasn’t found, but one of his cohorts who happened to be near his house when the squad arrived was killed in his place.

TEKWAT
Just like Randy, a close call caused Melanie to distance herself from gangsta life—she almost landed in jail because a friend filched (tekwat or shoplift) a bottle of cologne from a supermarket and put it in Melanie’s pocket. “Bumukol, e. Nakita. Pinababayaran ng ten times. ‘Pag di nabayaran yun, dun ako sa kulungan.”

One of her cousins—the same one who bore the 15 slaps in her behalf when she joined the West Side Mobstahs—got wind of what happened and went to Melanie’s mother so the money owed could be paid before she got locked up. “Binato ako ng orasan ng nanay ko. Tapos umiyak siya. Nakakahiya. Magkano lang yung cologne? P20? Nahuli ako sa halagang ganun.”

Meanwhile, the West Side Mobstah gang was disintegrating. “May nasaksak kasi sila, tapos namatay. Kaya naglayo silang lahat.”

HANAP- BUHAY
Watching the mayhem from not too far away were the people behind Community and Family Services International (CFSI), an NGO that happens to be located in an old building along Park Avenue. The group’s primary focus is helping displaced persons in far-flung conflict areas like Mindanao and Myanmar, but it became clear the gangstas in CFSI’s own backyard were also displaced persons—displaced from mainstream society—whose lives were being ripped apart by conflict.

CFSI set up the Hanap Buhay, Bagong Buhay program to take tambays off the streets and into vocational courses so they can eventually find work. The most popular course has been food and beverage (F&B), because those who complete it are guarranteed jobs at restaurants that are allied with the vocational school. The course costs P13,000 and runs for 6 months. CFSI shoulders only half the cost of the tuition. The other half is paid for in installments by the youths themselves once they start earning, so they have a sense of personal responsibility.

BAGONG BUHAY
Ruth Solis, the social worker assigned by CFSI to the program, explains how the gang’s own psychology and dynamics are being harnessed by the NGO to reshape their lives. “As you can see, they are very territorial. Kada-street may grupo. If we gather members of different gangs here [in Park Avenue], mag-iinggitan yan. ‘Ma’am, baka nandiya si ganyan . . .’ So we take them out of town. Tagaytay, Mount Makiling. ’Pag inalis mo sila sa teritoryo nila, they become less mayabang, because they become dependent on you, for food, for transportation.”

Outside their turf, the boundaries between gangstas start to blur. The trip out is like a vacation—no pressure, no pontificating, lots of fun and food. But life skills training is subtly woven into the activities.

CFSI also puts the gang members’ advanced capacity for loyalty and solidarity to good use. Winning over just one leader can mean winning over an entire gang. Randy, for example, has been a valuable ally to Ruth. “Ang advantage ni Randy, magaling siya makisama,” says Ruth. “Tapos, ‘pag kaibigan ka niya, talagang hindi ka niya papabayaan. That’s why a lot of the other kids look up to him.”

Jason hopped on board because Randy was in. After spending 2 years in first year, 2 years in second year, and 2 years in third year high school, then dropping out altogether, he passed the Accreditation and Equivalency Test with CFSI’s help recently. “If you pass that test, it’s like the equivalent of passing high school,” explains Ruth. The test is administered to people who feel awkward going back to high school, but want to have the credentials. “Manny Pacquiao also took this test.”

ENDO
The streetsmart Melanie is one of CFSI’s most successful Hanap Buhay, Bagong Buhay participants. She has completed vocational courses in computers, cosmetology, and food and beverage. Her favorite is food and beverage, “kasi may trabaho kaagad”. Her first job as a waitress was in a restaurant in Mall of Asia, and she was asked to come back for a second stint after her first 6-month contract ended. Hard work surprisingly agrees with an ex-tambay like her. “Gustong-gusto ko yung napapagod. Halimbawa, closing ako ngayon. ‘Pag sinabi ng sir ko na wala tayong opening, ako ang magvo-volunteer. So straight na opening at closing ako.” Why does she like it? “Pera. Tapos mas marami akong nakikilalang tao.

Saving is a challenge, however. When not on “service break” (the idle period between 6-month contracts), Melanie earns an average of P7,000 a month from waitressing. She gives three-fourths to her mother to pay for household expenses. At the end of her first 6-month stint, she was able to funnel her last pay to a small venture that tided her over the service break. “Nagtinda ako ng sigarilyo, kendi, tinapay, noodles, diyan sa kanto.” At the end of her second 6-month stint, there were no more savings. “Bumili kasi ako ng gamit,” she says. Deprived of life’s little luxuries for so long, she splurged on a TV, DVD player, “slide-up MP4”, and silver bracelet “na may bato-bato, maganda”, all bought in “gives”.

Currently on “endo” (end of contract), she is hoping her third 6-month assignment will come soon. Her long-term goals are simple. “Gusto ko lang may tirahan kami na malayo ang mga kapatid ko sa gulo, tapos may trabaho sila. Yung matinong trabaho ha? Hindi yung nagbebenta ng kung ano-ano. Yung kapatid ko dati, nagbenta siya, marijuana. Ang ginawa ko, nilagay ko sa tubig. Di na pwede.”

There is also the matter of getting pustiso for her younger brother. “Sawa na rin siya sa pagiging tambay. Gusto niya mag-apply sa fastfood. E bungal siya ng isang ngipin kasi nabagsak siya sa scooter. Hindi siya natatanggap.” She told him to apply again only after his dentures are in place, which she expects to happen in a couple of months, “kasi magkakapera ang kuya ko. Gas boy siya, malakas kumita.”

KABA
Randy briefly worked as a busboy after completing Hanap Buhay, Bagong Buhay’s food and beverage course. He was assigned to a posh restaurant in Greenbelt, where he has seen “KC, tsaka si Pops” in the flesh.

“Gusto ko yung nagdadala ng food, kasi hindi ko nagagawa yun dati. Pero nakakatakot mag-saulo ng order.” A 12 gauge shotgun does not faze Randy the gang leader, but he balked when he was asked to take over bartending duties at the restaurant. “Naunahan ako ng kaba. Hindi ko alam mag-mix ng cocktail. Tinuruan naman kami pero hindi mo naman makukuha yun sa isang beses lang.” He was so panicked over the assignment that he stopped going to work after the first 15 days. He was even too ashamed to call.

Ruth, whom Randy has taken to calling the real gang leader, has arranged for him to personally deliver the check for the balance of his tuition to the food and beverage school, to force him to set things right with them after going AWOL. A job transfer is being worked out.

“JOHN MAYER”
Jason, meanwhile, is still high from passing his high school equivalency exam. He is now eyeing college. “Gagawa ako ng paraan na maisabay.” (He will start working in a restaurant soon, after completing his Hanap Buhay, Bagong Buhay training.) “Kahit two-year course lang.” Which school? “Hindi ko pa alam. Hindi ko rin alam yung schedule, kung magkano. Kelangan malaman ko muna kung saan ako maa-assign.”

Then, there’s his music career. “Nasa banda ako dati, alternative. Pero acoustic na ako ngayon, blues na ang tinitira ko. Idol ko si John Mayer.” Wide-eyed and well-built, the affable Jason actually looks a bit like John Mayer. But showbiz is not for him—or so he says. “Mas sikat ka ‘pag underground artist ka. Magpapakalat ka lang ng CDing burn.” Sample nga? “Ay, ayoko! Ano kasi e, yung lyrics ko, hindi naka-copyright. Iniiwasan ko magka-leakage.”

Finally, his political career. “SK councilor kasi ako sa amin.” What? “Oo. Nangampanya ako, tapos nanalo. Dapat nga chairman na lang ang tinakbo ko e, kasi mas mataas pa ang boto ko sa kanya!” He turns serious. “Gusto ko rin magkaroon ng mark dito, para magkaroon ng change.” How? “Una, sa aming magto-tropa. Hanap ako ng pagka-busyhan namin. Hindi na yung vices.” Sports? “Hindi na magki-click sa amin yun. Ganun na rin ang project nila lagi. Sports daw nang sports. Bibigyan kami ng bola, ng dart board. Wala namang gumagamit. Gusto ko yung habang tumatagal, mas magiging interesado sila. Diversionary tactics lang. Kasipag busy ka, wala kang oras para sa bisyo.”

ISTAMBAY ME
As Melanie, Randy, and Jason struggle to keep themselves busy, the work also goes on for CFSI. Barangay officials and parents of out-of-school youths are being closely involved in the Hanap Buhay, Bagong Buhay efforts so progress is sustained. Many kids still need to be placed in vocational courses to keep them away from drugs, violence, prostitution, and criminal activity. But more funds are needed to pay for 50% of their tuition. At only P6,500 per life-changing course, it’s money well-spent.

“Hangga’t hindi pa sila namamatay, meron pang chance,” says Ruth. “Ang tingin kasi sa tambay laging masama. Pero actually, ‘pag sinabi mong kelangan nila tumulong, tutulong sila. Mabilis sila kumilos. At ‘pag sinabi nila walang manggugulo dito, talagang walang manggugulo.”

Such is the gangsta’s uncanny charisma. With Park Avenue, Pasay only 15 minutes away from the real Park Avenue (Ayala Avenue in Makati), it’s wise to work with it rather than eradicate it.

To sponsor a Hanap Buhay, Bagong Buhay scholar and know more about other ways to help, call CFSI at 519-0048, or email headquarters@cfsi.ph. More information about CFSI’s other projects can be found at www.cfsi.ph.

*Names of gangs and gang members have been changed.

------------
Teysi ng Tambayan

Tessie Tomas on celebrity philanthropy and finding meaning among the tambays.

While making buzz-worthy films (Ploning, 100, One True Love) and top-rating soaps (Kim Samsoon), Tessie Tomas works as Public Relations Officer for Community and Family Services International (CFSI), the NGO behind the Hanap Buhay, Bagong Buhay program that provides jobs and training for disadvantaged youths.

What bothers you most about tambays?
I lived in Tondo when I was younger, and also in Blumentritt. Nakakakita ako ng mga tambay, but it was not as bad as now. At age 10, I was doing radio soaps. I would take a jeepney to the radio station to record until nine in the evening. You cannot imagine a 10-year-old girl now taking a jeepney and feeling safe by herself. I felt so safe at that time.

Some people will freak out if they knew the waiter or waitress serving them is a former gang member.
I would tell them to focus on the positive instead of being afraid. Be happy for the person and give him or her encouragement!

Many celebrities exploit social causes to boost their image. Has your sincerity ever been doubted?
Sometimes people think I am running for public office. But the reason why I [became active in] social work was my mid-life crisis. I had a 10-12 year conflict that started at 40. Then one day, parang I heard a soft voice that said, “Stop searching so far for the meaning of life”. I was already helping CFSI then. I realized that was the work that made me happy. This is my second passion. Nagugulat ang mga press. “How come you didn’t tell us?” Kasi it was something private e. The same with Regine (Velasquez, her co-star in Kim Samsoon). I told her, why don’t you come and visit my NGO before our season ends? I explained what we do. She wanted to donate 20 sacks of rice. She didn’t want any TV cameras. Halos ang buong Pasay naghintay kay Regine Velasquez. Sabi ng mga bata kay Regine, kumanta ka naman sa amin. Sabi niya, anong gusto niyo? “On the Wings of Love”. Kinanta niya ang buo, hindi excerpt ha, acapella. Naiyak ako. Biruin mo, Regine Velasquez singing. And she did it so casually, one morning.

How do you cope when things don’t work out, or when people take advantage of you?
Yung rate of success, I don’t focus on that. Hindi ako nagpapaka-result oriented. I just focus on helping. I have no expectations. When I hear that voice that says ‘You help’, hindi ko yan kinu-question. Hindi ko iniisip na, pucha, baka igastusin ito sa iba. Every single time I have a chance to help, I just do it.

Why were fame, fortune, and family not enough to make you happy?
I had my first Pajero in 1992 when I had Teysi ng Tahanan. I looked at it and I said, this is really the car that I like. Glistening, it’s the right color, it’s so ganda, I have a driver, I live in a nice condominium in Ecology Village—I was still single then—daily show and all. And I looked at it, and in two days, the euphoria was gone. When I organize a medical mission, the joy lasts for a month. Why? Because it is soul work. I am feeding my soul when I do social work. It is when you are of service to others that you feel so fulfilled. Pala.

What keeps me going is the balance. Nag-burnout ako sa showbiz. If I kept going on that route alone, it was really dangerous for me na. I might say I’m gonna drop all of this. But because of my social work, I am more motivated to do showbiz. At this point in my life, I really, really know na what counts.

(This article originally appeared in the January 2009 issue of Marie Claire magazine.)
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FILGOLF - Tagaytay's Small Hotels




STAYING INN
By Stephanie Dychiu

Tagaytay’s small hotels give reason to stay indoors and snuggle.  

Would you drive one-and-a-half hours out of Metro Manila, just to stay in?  Normally no, but the bed-and-breakfast boom in Tagaytay has turned cocooning into a blissfully inactive activity.  As Metro Manila grows progressively noxious, more pensiones sprout on Tagaytay’s balmy ridge.  What these establishments lack in size, they make up for in concept.          

Sometimes a hotel isn’t just a place to lay your head on.  It can be the very reason for making a trip.  A friend’s kid brother once told me, in between potato-chip bites, that his idea of a perfect vacation was to check into a hotel and order room service.  That nine-year-old wisdom is certainly true for these three small hotels in Tagaytay.      

The Boutique Bed and Breakfast  
A bed and breakfast, strictly speaking, is family-run and serves only breakfast.  For it to be family-run, a family must be in residence.  That’s the textbook definition, but there is nothing textbook about The Boutique Bed and Breakfast.  A joint venture of friends Happy Ongpauco, Allana Montelibano, and Melon Santiago, the hotel is a mix of modern interiors, rooms named for romance, and, um, Hawaiian barbecue.  All on a scenic location overlooking Taal Lake.         
The stark white façade and clean lines of the building, with white Panton chairs poised carefully on the terrace, are hard to miss after you survive the bombardment of buko pie and bulalo signage along Tagaytay’s main highway.  A flight of steps leads to a lobby whose views on urbanity are interpreted in glass, leather, acrylic, light touches of brocade, and the prevalence of white.  This space has been a frequent backdrop for photo shoots since the hotel opened in October 2006.         

Behind the lobby counter is the “Pamper Me” room, where guests can select bathroom amenities from an array of options prepared by the hotel’s chemist.  Shampoo, soaps, shower gels, and eau de toilette come in different scents like apricot, mango butter, tea tree, lemongrass, chamomile, lavender, green apple, aloe vera, bergamot, orange, jasmine, chocolate, and vanilla.  Stacks of DVDs lie beside the bath and body treats, in case the need to fight boredom arises.         

The seven rooms of The Boutique are named after the supposed seven stages of love:  I Lust, I Dare, I Desire, I Dream, I Escape, I Surrender, and I Love.  In that order.  No surprise then that the place is popular with couples.  When words are not enough, book a room to show your Desire, or prove your willingness to Surrender.  But try not to Escape.  It’s the smallest room with no view.  It adjoins I Love, however, and can be a convenient sanctuary in the event of a tiff.  Also a nice hideout for kids who don’t want to be around when parents get too cozy.   

At The Boutique, Love is only second to Lust.  The latter has a bigger space, better view, and more privacy.  Love is solidly grounded on the first floor, open and welcoming with direct access to the public lanai adjacent to the hotel’s dining room.  Lust, on the other hand, is seductively perched on the second floor, and has the only bathtub in the entire hotel.  It looks out to Taal Lake through floor-to-ceiling windows, visible from the lanai below, but elusive and unreachable.  Which room is more in demand?  Lust, of course.         

Much has been said about the architecture and design of The Boutique, but equally notable is the food.  The hotel was, in fact, originally intended to be a location for Happy Ongpauco’s Hawaiian Bar-B-Que restaurant, before the owners decided the place was too scenic to be limited to dining.  Says hotel manager Mylene Bautista-Bizzotto:  “Our specialty is baby back ribs.  People come from Manila and wait for a seat, just to have that.”                   

There is a niggling disconnect between the urbane interiors of the hotel and the down-home quality of its food, but that is easily shrugged off when a chunk of bulalo as big as your arm is served up for lunch.  Or when breakfast in bed comes with bulalo corned beef so tender, the tasty meat flakes fall feather-like from the bone.  Suck the (bone) marrow out of life, I say.   

Checking into the hotel is not necessary for a taste of its food, scenery, and design-conscious surroundings.  If you’re heading up on a weekend, however, it’s wise to call ahead so you don’t waste time waiting.  Rooms and restaurant seats are sometimes booked weeks or months in advance.  The hotel staff welcomes group bookings (not hard to fill up seven rooms) and can make special arrangements for marriage proposals, anniversary surprises, and such.   

The Boutique Bed and Breakfast is located at 45 Aguinaldo Highway, Silang Crossing East, Tagaytay City (Phone:  +63 46 413-1885, +63 46 413 1798, +63 46 860-2716, +63 927-3632660; Email:  theboutique.bnb@gmail.com).  Room rates range from P4,555-P6,985 on weekdays and P5,650-P8,985 on weekends.  Rates are for two and include breakfast, complimentary facials, and hot chocolate at bedtime.  More information at www.theboutiquebnb.com.       

T House  
The T is not for tea but for tranquility—this is the first thing guests learn about T House.  Aptly situated beside the Ina ng Laging Saklolo (Mother of Perpetual Help) church, T House opened in June 2007 to restore calm to worn-out souls.  Upon entering the property, bamboo shrubbery and the sound of trickling water set the tone for the Zen-like experience the hotel hopes to impart to guests.  It’s not the first establishment to attempt this, and it most definitely won’t be the last.          

But T House is determined to awaken feelings of well-being and transformation.  Though it lacks a lake view, it has its own spa and gourmet restaurant.  The property stands on land that the owners, Fem and Mario Paguio, originally earmarked for retirement.  Mature fruit trees create a natural canopy over the hotel, and support numerous Japanese lanterns that hang over the pathways.         

Zen philosophy teaches that all beings come from four basic elements:  earth, fire, water, and air.  The 15 rooms of T House are thus grouped into three clusters called Fire, Water, and Earth (sorry, no Air).  The color schemes of the rooms are based on the element they are assigned to:  red and yellow for Fire, blue and green for Water, brown for Earth.  Natural stone accents on the floors and walls, and the use of recycled wooden beams for railings, keep the structures warm and inviting despite their generally sparse appearance.  At T House, the allegiance to Zen does not preclude modern bathroom fixtures and flat screen TVs in every room.             

Soaps come from one of Tagaytay’s most well-known establishments, the Ilog Maria Bee Farm.  At Ilog Maria, honey and beeswax are used as natural moisturizers to make soaps, face scrubs, bath salts, toothpaste, and many other products.  The soaps come in delicious scents like kalamansi, carrot, cinnamon, coffee, ginger, rosemary, spearmint, and oatmeal.                

The in-house spa occupies a large cabana equipped with a few massage beds separated by curtains.  The aromatherapy massage treatments are divided into Energy (revitalizing), Serenity (calming), Stress-Less (relaxing), Passion (mysterious), and Detox (cleansing).  The most popular aromatherapy treatment is the T House Jojoba Blend.         

The most eye-catching area of T House upon entry, if you navigate through your stomach like I do, is the theater kitchen.  From the garden, you can watch the kitchen staff assemble the evening’s meal, and sort through their shiny collection of pots, pans, and other implements.   Spa cuisine that won’t starve you makes up the menu at the T House restaurant.  Favorites include the salmon salad with wasabi mashed potatoes, tuna citrus salad, and chocolate pancake ganache with walnuts.  The signature dessert is a panna cotta trio made up of raspberry, pineapple jam, and fresh mango, on a base of lemongrass.  Wash it down with the T House signature cocktail—non-alcoholic—of guava, papaya, and mango.  Tea at T House is served with fresh rosemary, tarragon, and mint leaves picked from the property’s own herb garden.          

The restaurant can seat 40 on its ground floor and 60 on its upper al fresco floor, making T House an excellent venue for medium-sized parties that can be kept somehow intimate.  As a wedding reception venue, it is snug enough to ensure bride and groom properly bump into all guests, instead of sending bleary-eyed smiles halfway across a ballroom.  All 15 rooms can also be reserved for group vacations or family reunions.          

T House is located at 3195 Calamba Road, Tagaytay City (Phone:  +63 46 483-0011 to 12, +63 928-9409954; Email:  stay@THouseTagaytay.com).  Room rates range from P4,025-P6,325.  Rates are for two and include breakfast.  More information on www.THouseTagaytay.com.       

Potter’s Ridge  
Potter’s Ridge seriously challenges the logic of building your own resthouse in Tagaytay.  Why bother when there is a place that perfectly approximates the imaginary Tagaytay home of your imaginary aunt?  “I want them to feel like they’re my relatives,” says Marissa Potter of the guests who come to stay.  By all accounts, she has succeeded.         

While other pensiones invest in stylish design and chic concept to set themselves apart, Potter’s Ridge has gone the opposite route and stuck to the basics.  Its choice location puts guests almost directly between Taal Lake and Balayan Bay, and the simple open structure of the hotel makes the most out of the breezes and sunshine that pour copiously through the windows.  The absence of overly professional polish in the décor creates a genuine sense of being in a home instead of a hotel.  Most of the furniture was obtained from a surplus auction house and restored by Marissa, who likes fiddling with fixer-uppers.          

The entire Potter’s Ridge, in fact, was one massive fixer-upper when Marissa first laid eyes on it.  After living abroad for thirty years and working for Reuters in the Middle East, she returned to the Philippines and bought an empty lot in Tagaytay.  The property had a 50% drop, but this did not deter her from pursuing her project—even if it meant having to rappel down whenever she had to check on the foundation.  Fortunately, at 2,678 feet above sea level, views at Potter’s Ridge are still fabulous even five storeys below the ground floor.

There are 19 rooms at Potter’s Ridge, all spacious, clean, and outfitted with basic furniture.  If you’re looking for five-star amenities, this is not the place for you, but if you appreciate seeing priceless Asian art in one room and silver Mickey Mouse cabinet handles in another, you’ll feel right at home at Potter’s Ridge.  There is a charm in the lack of effort to live up to someone else’s idea of sophistication.          

Food in Potter’s Ridge is served in an expansive dining room surrounded by views of Taal Lake and Balayan Bay.  The atmosphere is beautiful yet homey at the same time.  Marissa says guests sometimes get so comfortable, they come out to breakfast in pajamas.  And why not?  The laid-back vibe of the place really does trick your mind into thinking it belongs to you.

The kitchen is run by Chef Mau Santos, who trained under Chef Ed Quimson.  Marissa recommends Potter’s Trotters (their version of crispy pata), zucchini crunch (zucchini sautéed in tomatoes and herbs with crunchy pork rind), Alfonso banana leaf wrapped tilapia (named after Alfonso, Cavite, the nearby town where most of the Potter’s Ridge staff hail from), and Glen’s pesce pasta (pasta named after Marissa’s husband Glen, made with mackerel, herbs, olive oil, and dried chilies).  Chef Mau’s bulalo steak is a must-try, as is the special coffee made through a “secret” method by the staff from Alfonso.          

A home away from home is what every bed and breakfast aspires to be.  Though its facilities are not perfect, when it comes to creating a sense of home, Potter’s Ridge succeeds without really trying.     

Potter’s Ridge is located at Km 67 Aguinaldo Highway, Laurel, Batangas (Phone:  +63 46 413-0368, +63 919-4629897; Email:  info@pottersridge.net).  Room rates range from P2,800-P4,800.  Rates are for two and include breakfast.  More information at www.pottersridge.net.

(This article originally appeared in Filgolf magazine, October-December 2008.)

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MARIE CLAIRE - Mestiza vs. Morena




WHO'S AFRAID OF KAYUMANGGI?
(Kayumanggi = brown skin in Filipino) 
By Stephanie Dychiu

Brown beauties break barriers to thrive in their own skin.  But can beauty really be color-blind?

  
On July 21, 1969, Neil Armstrong became the first man on the moon, and a morena became the first Filipina Miss Universe.  For pageant-obsessed Pinoys, the triumph of Gloria Diaz almost eclipsed man landing on the moon.  More than just an honor for the nation on the world stage, it was a victory for all morenas who had long been sidelined by the mestiza ideal.

Tisay Supremacy

There is scant information on pre-colonial standards for beauty in the Philippines, so preference for fair skin often gets blamed on colonization.  No less than Jose Rizal lampooned this in his 1887 novel Noli Me Tangere.  The book’s social-climbing character Doña Victorina sports artificial ringlets, a fake Andalusian accent, and a face thick with rice powder to appear white and Spanish.

“Four centuries of being called ‘indio’, and, when marrying above one’s class or into a mestizo clan, often hearing the line ‘para mejorar la raza’ (in order to improve the race), even in jest, has driven the point that brown simply doesn't matter in society,” says veteran fashion and advertising savant Bobby Caballero.

In the 1940s to 1960s, the reign of Hollywood stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn further fanned the flames of mestiza worship.  Virtually all leading ladies in Philippine cinema were high-nosed alabaster beauties—Paraluman, Carmen Rosales, Gloria Romero, Amalia Fuentes, and Susan Roces, to name a few.  Even the Binibining Pilipinas winners that preceded Gloria Diaz, such as Myrna Panlilio and Pilar Pilapil, were mostly mestizas.

And then came Nora Aunor.

The Anti-Tisay

“Nora Aunor totally upset society,” says Joann Maglipon, editor-in-chief of YES! Magazine and www.PEP.ph (Philippine Entertainment Portal).  “Suddenly, a small brown girl with very Filipino features had become the country’s superstar—making producers wait, moving politicians to send for her by helicopter, leaving advertising executives lining up.  The country’s media were carrying daily images of a dark-skinned, wavy-haired girl who had once sold water by the railroad tracks.  Seemingly overnight, the masa was dictating its taste upon the scene, sweeping aside an aghast elite, which fought back by looking down on the superstar.  There is a reason why they call Nora phenomenal.”

The girl called “negra” by her schoolmates was able to command manic adoration from millions, and she hosted one of the longest running TV shows in Philippine history (“Superstar”, which ran for 25 years).  To date, her record of acting awards is unsurpassed, and her legendary fanbase remains solid despite a prolonged absence from the entertainment scene.

“Nora was popular because of her wonderful voice, and people were in dire need of role models who were accessible,” says Professor Jose Wendell Capili, Head of Graduate Studies at the College of Arts and Letters of the University of the Philippines, and editor of the book Mabuhay to Beauty.  “There were big stars after Nora, like Sharon [Cuneta], Maricel [Soriano], Judy Ann [Santos], but nobody can duplicate the phenomenon that she was during her prime.  With the possible exception of Vilma Santos.”

Santos, however, was of the standard fair-skinned mold.  As the original Eskinol girl, her translucent complexion drove a generation of Pinays to use astringent every night before going to bed.

Brown Sex Appeal

In the 1980s, “chocolate beauty” Tetchie Agbayani set another kayumanggi milestone by posing nude for the German edition of Playboy magazine.  Twice.

“I think when Playboy came out, it dawned on people here na maganda pala ‘pag dark ka,” says Agbayani.  Before Playboy, it took more effort for her to get noticed locally.  “I was already in movies, but parang ang bagal.  My late manager Franklin Cabaluna had this collection of Playboy magazines.  Out of frustration, I joked, ‘If Playboy comes, I’ll pose for them.’  Months later, Playboy contacted him.  They needed to do a feature on women of Asia.  He was handling a lot of celebrities, so he brought this thick wad of pictures and showed it to them.  When they gave him back the pictures of the girls they wanted, natawa siya.  It was all me, I just looked different [in every shot] because the pictures were taken from different stages of my life.”

Agbayani went on to star in Hollywood films like The Emerald Forest, The Money Pit, and Gymkata.  “I don’t think I would’ve stood out if I weren’t dark.  Europeans, Westerners, they think that when you’re Asian, you have dark skin, dark hair, dark eyes.  They don’t see an Asian girl to be mestiza.”

Bambi Arambulo was another sexy icon of the 1980s.  She played the debutante in the camp classic Temptation Island, a movie about shipwrecked beauty contestants.  “I was not morena, although my features were,” she says.  “I was always envious of the ones who were born with a natural tan.  But during my time, I truly doubt one's skin tone was ever the reason not to get picked for a show.”  Arambulo has been based in the US since 1983.  Does she feel more beautiful abroad where she can be considered exotic?  “I never noticed the difference.”

“Personally, I find the morena beauty more magnetic, more sensual,” says Joann Maglipon of YES! Magazine.  “She looks tighter and just more solid.  But then I catch myself, What am I thinking?  Why am I pitting one against the other?  Must pigment actually define beauty?  Pigment—which is an accident of birth, of race, of continent, of circumstance?”

Masa Media

If Nora Aunor were starting out today instead of 1969, Maglipon feels she will have a tougher time gaining acceptance.  “The rise of whitening products tells you so.”  She adds, however, that it might be wrong to say skin color is the dominant variable producers look for in actresses they want to build up.  “Being businessmen, they are going for who the public will like.  There are many informal feedback sources that they can use, such as their maids—it has to be the masa—also their colleagues, but they have to pick up the public pulse.  They cannot do it in isolation.”  Other intangible factors come into play, says Maglipon, such as feedback about work habits and viability for stardom.  But all things being equal, if skin color was the only difference between two talents, she says the mestiza would have the edge.

There are exceptions.  “A welcome surprise is the continuing viability of the Sex Bomb Dancers who have a show called Daisy Siete.  It’s a minor surprise in the industry that this show has [lasted] way beyond what was expected, even after [the Sex Bomb Dancers] were booted out of Eat Bulaga, although later they returned maybe twice a week or so.  They still managed to keep the show going.  That means people can relate to them.  Also, because they feature problems that are real to those of their age.  So, maybe that’s the thing.  But I wouldn’t be surprised if there was also pressure on these girls to look fairer.”

Morena model-turned-actress Bubbles Paraiso says she has so far not experienced any stereotyping.  “I don’t know if my complexion limits my roles, because I’ve only started in showbiz. Before, they would always have mestizas portray rich roles and morenas poor roles, but so far, most of my roles have been rich!”

Undeniably, though, many comic acts still portray dark people as objects of ridicule.  “When you have TV shows making a mockery out of all these snub-nosed people,” says Maglipon, “then you create another generation that’s going to believe their noses are not good enough, a generation that feels bad about itself, that must go for cosmetic surgery.”  By her observation, dark and flat-nosed people are only able to avoid comic typecasting “when they’re very tall, and have the features of a ‘black beauty’, because then they take on some Caucasian or Western features that offset the Pinoy features.”

A recent trend in show business has been the sudden whitewashing of the skin tone of erstwhile morena celebrities.  “The young . . . are pressured when [they see] their kayumanggi heroes turn fair,” comments Bobby Caballero.  “We’ve become racists in our own brown islands.”

The media plays a huge role, concludes Paraiso.  “The more the media presents a Filipina beauty as someone beautiful, the more Pinays will take pride in [their] skin color.  ‘Fair is beautiful’ has to be forgotten, and ‘I am beautiful’ should be instilled.  The more the media features morenas, the more people will accept that our natural complexion is indeed beautiful.”

But advertising is the hand that feeds media, and things get complicated.

Morenas in Advertising

Nandy Villar, Managing Director of McCann Erickson, says that twenty years ago, morenas usually got their break in advertising only after winning major beauty pageants.  “Even then, they weren’t big icons.  Those who made it big were all fair-skinned.  One of the biggest was Alice Dixon, who became famous for her ‘I can feel it!’ Palmolive ad.”

Other morena beauty endorsers usually had a prior claim-to-fame before they bagged advertising contracts.  “Twenty years ago, toilet soaps like Palmolive and Lux were the beauty brands,” says Villar, “and Eskinol seemed the only other beauty product advertised on top of the soaps.  Lux used the two biggest names in 1988, Sharon Cuneta and Kuh Ledesma.  [Kuh] had always been as she is now, morena.  But her celebrity status allowed Lux and its fans to go beyond her skin tone.  Soon after, came the pre-glutathioned Regine Velasquez, and Pops Fernandez, who was also morena.”

Villar says beauty products today still favor fair-skinned women.  “That’s our cultural standard for beauty, especially among the mainstream market.  Many times, the choice for morena beauties happens when the ad wants to portray characters that are closer to real women, like Lumen of Surf.”

Model Rissa Mananquil is an exception, having clinched coveted beauty endorsements like Pond’s and Vaseline lotion despite being dark.  “When I was a kid, I had a playmate who called me ‘negra’,” she says.  “But I never grew up thinking I was ugly.”  In 2001, she was part of a Bennetton international ad campaign in New York.  She does not recall losing any modeling jobs because of her skin color.  “Thanks to kayumanggi forerunners in the industry like Anna Bayle, Tweetie de Leon, and Angel Aquino—they paved the way for my morena batchmates and myself.”

In the late 1970s, Anna Bayle’s exotic looks and distinctive walk transported her to Paris and New York, where she became the “First Asian Supermodel”.  Tweetie de Leon won the Supermodel of the Philippines title in 1987 and has outlasted many of her fairer-skinned contemporaries as a product endorser.  In the early 1990s, Angel Aquino was one of the first unknown morena models to spearhead the launch of a major shampoo brand (Pantene).

The openness toward darker models ebbs and flows, however.    Morena TV host Bianca Gonzales, whose first name ironically means “white” in Italian, started out as a commercial model in 2000.  “It might be harder for Pinay models like me this time around,” she says, “more than three, four, five years ago, with the influx of half-Filipino, half-foreign models around.”  She says she has lost jobs to fairer-skinned models twice in the past.

Bubbles Paraiso began modeling in 2001.  When she first started going to VTR’s, her manager told her she needed to get bleached white if she really wanted to get jobs.  “I kind of got discouraged thinking the only way was to go white, which I didn’t want to do, but fortunately after that, I landed a TV commercial because of my color—it was a summer TV commercial for a soda, so they wanted someone tan.”

Kayumanggi Chinese-Filipino model Trixie Chua, a runner-up in John Casablancas’ Look of the Year in 1988, did not experience any direct discrimination while auditioning for commercials, but saw subtle signs that her skin color was an issue.  “They'd tell you, ‘thanks, we've booked someone’, and you'll just hear that [the job] went to a non-morena model.  I landed more campaigns in Singapore in a shorter period of time than in Manila.”

Bobby Caballero witnessed many mestiza vs. morena encounters during his heydays in fashion and advertising in the 1970s and 1980s.  “[In fashion shows], mestizas were the top choice.  Dark-skinned models were plugged in when shortages came up.  Dante Ramirez shook the scene with his towering dark goddesses—Diwata, Dayang Dayang, Elektrika—[but] the buzz was short-lived.  Mag editors and ad agencies still preferred ‘kutis porcelana’.  I was with Ace Compton (now Saatchi), and kayumanggis didn't even make it past the brainstorming talks.  [Mestiza beauty] Maritess Revilla, the Camay Girl, held the throne for years.  We'd shoot test commercials and air them in Cebu and Davao, but we never invested in kayumanggis for the acid test.  My ‘Iba na ang matangkad’ Star Margarine campaign had [fair-skinned] Aurora Pijuan, then Miss International, but she was [still] considered [dark] by the client. When we launched Levi’s, no kayumanggis made it to the list.

“Then, we were signed up by Hyatt Hotel with Tita Chito Madrigal for the La Concha fashion shows.  It took a cosmopolitan mind like Tita Chito, prodded by gutsy Santiago de Manila (designer Ernest Santiago), to get the white girls worried about getting tans to win solo spots.  Exoticism became the rage, and Gary Flores produced Kalipayan.  The tisays begrudgingly worked up tans by the Hyatt pool.  Controversy ensued when Gary created Group A and Group B models.  Group A were the tisays, Group B were the morenas.  Anna Bayle was put in Group B, and she stormed out of the Hyatt, and later on to Paris, New York, and Vogue cover fame.

 “When I did our Clio award-winning TV commercial ‘The Beauty of the Philippines, Philippine Air Lines Shining Through’, we used sultry olive-skinned Tweetie de Leon and Melba Arribas, together with not-so-mestiza PAL cabin crew, [the] Charisma Girls.    “I continue to work with fashion directors, like Raymond Villanueva.  In his book, Ria Bolivar is today's top kayumanggi ramp star.  Rajo Laurel, light years ahead in attitude and style, uses dusky Anna Casas.”

Kayumanggi Rising

What spurred the increased openness to a non-white paradigm?  Professor Capili enumerates key incidents in history:  “The emergence of the African-American and Asian-American movement; the liberation of colonized countries in Asia and Africa after World War II; the emergence of non-white artists in mainstream cultures, as exemplified by the domination of Motown music during the 1960s and 1970s; the emergence of colored supermodels like Anna Bayle, Naomi Campbell, and others—these are circumstances that were not there before World War II.  It is still a white man's world, because the world is controlled by leaders of predominantly white cultures, but the glass ceiling has been broken.  It is now possible to move across disciplines despite skin color.”

To Joann Maglipon, however, color and race biases are still very much around.  “Right here, you see it.  How Filipino parents and Pinoy media teach kids to think that short-legged, snub-nosed, and dark-skinned are funny caricatures of the human form.  Sure, there’s been a bit of progress, but not enough to acknowledge that brown is beautiful.”

In Fairness . . . 

Most Pinays still want to be fair.  In 2004, a Synovate study showed 50% of Filipinas used a skin lightening product.  Today, whitening products control more than half of the local skin care market.  Even the 22-year-old daughter of trailblazing morena beauty Gloria Diaz (Isabel Daza) is endorsing a whitening product.

“I think now [being white] is more associated with beauty than with one's rank in society,” says Villar of McCann Erickson.  “It matches our standards for cleanliness and hygiene. Culturally, we see the maputi as mukhang mabango, fresh, and neat.  In fashion, we also believe that if one is maputi, one can wear any color of clothing.  [Wanting to be white] is really an Asian thing, more than a Pinoy thing.”

Rissa Mananquil says if she met a girl who used whitening products, she would not try to talk her out of it.  “Just because you think something is ugly, doesn’t mean the world agrees with you, but to each his own.  Being a beauty columnist as well, I get to interview foreign principals of global make-up brands.  They are always puzzled why Asians and Filipinos want to look fairer.  In the US and Europe, women go crazy for self-tanners and bronzers because being tan is their definition of beauty.”

“I am anti-whitening for myself,” says Bianca Gonzales, “but if I have friends who want to have fairer skin, I will support them.  What I am for is supporting Pinays who choose to love their brown skin . . . and not feel pressured to spend [their] allowance on whitening products.”

“This whole beauty thing ends up making things ugly,” observes Joann Maglipon.  “That desk job, those house chores, being of modest means.  Why?  Because beauty tells you these things keep you from having access to the huge vacation, the wealthy and indulgent partner.  It’s hard to have smooth, fair skin when you have to take the tricycle, then the jeep, and finally the MRT, to get to your desk job.”

Tetchie Agbayani is more bothered by the lack of self-acceptance than by whitening per se.  “If you’re going to be happier with fairer skin, go for it.  But why are so many women not happy with what they have?  I would address the root causes of that mindset.”  She cites the black-to-white mutation of Michael Jackson as an extreme example.  “It’s called body dysmorphic disorder.  You look in the mirror and see many things wrong, but when others look at you, there’s nothing wrong.  So maybe what’s wrong is not how you look, but how you see yourself.”

Beauty Beyond Color

Black, brown, or white, natural or induced, beauty comes in many colors, and to deride a person’s preference for one or the other seems equally hackneyed in this enlightened age.  Could it be that the rise of kayumanggi beauty is significant not only because it opened eyes to the merits of a darker coloring, but also because it stirred a deeper and more universal chord among mestizas and morenas alike?  Nora Aunor represented something more than just her dark skin—she was a myth made real.  Talent enabled her to rise above society’s prejudices and create a more egalitarian model for attractiveness based on ability and empathy more than external looks.

Maybe kayumanggi beauties earn their place in the hearts of people not simply because they are brown and proud of it, or because they don’t try to be white, but because they prove that, brown or white, bleached or spray-tanned, a person’s worth is not to be judged by the color of her skin.

--------------------

Skin color bias, according to a morena icon turned psychologist

When it comes to beauty and skin color, Tetchie Agbayani is in the rare position of celebrated subject and trained observer—from beauty queen/fashion model in the late 1970s and Playboy model/movie actress in the 1980s-1990s, she became a psychology teacher at St. Joseph’s College in 2004.  Now completing her Master’s Degree in Psych from the Ateneo, she ponders the origins of skin color bias:

  • “We can’t attribute it solely to colonial mentality.  Let’s look at Japan.  Japan is extremely nationalistic.  They like their own.  They’ve never been colonized.  They have fair skin.  And yet, they still use whitening products. So it’s hard to say it’s [due to] colonial mentality.  It’s more deeply rooted, I believe.”
  • “It has something to do with the collective unconscious, I think.  Carl Jung talked about this wellspring of knowledge that connects all people, all cultures.  He talks about archetypes.  All communities, from the Inuits to the Eskimos to the tribes of the Amazon, recognize certain universal symbols.  I think it has something to do with the notion of white is good, black is bad . . . because of that collective unconscious.”
  • “In our bird farm, the birds with more colorful feathers attract more mates.”  (Related to natural selection, standing out from the crowd is an advantage in the biological competition for mates.  This evolutionary construct could partly explain the desire to be whiter or darker than one’s peers.)

(This article originally appeared in Marie Claire magazine, November 2008.)
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PHILIPPINE DAILY INQUIRER - Once upon a time, top CEO could only afford espasol for lunch


Once upon a time, top CEO could only afford ‘espasol’ for lunch
By Stephanie Dychiu
September 06, 2008

MANILA, Philippines—The Philippines may have scored zero on the medal tally in Beijing, but there is one Olympic title it can claim for itself—guardian of the bellies of the world’s greatest athletes.

If no untimely bout with diarrhea thwarted a sportsman’s dream of victory at the 2008 Olympics, it was thanks to an oral vaccine for cholera made by a Filipino pharma. Carlos “Do” Ejercito, president and CEO of United Laboratories (Unilab), gives the inside scoop: “In the last Olympics, China had a marathon runner whom they thought would win the gold medal. But he got diarrhea. Natalo. So, this time, all of China’s athletes took this vaccine so they don’t get diarrhea or cholera. And because you cannot have a cholera epidemic during the Olympics, all the food handlers in all the restaurants of Beijing had to take the vaccine. We supplied it.”


This Olympic caper is but the latest in the storied history of Unilab, a company that has been around for so long and has grown so large, most people forget it is a homegrown business that began as a corner drugstore in Binondo just after World War II.

From Binondo to Beijing
The late founder Jose Y. Campos first tried making his own products in the 1950’s with the vitamin Tiki-Tiki. It was called “United American Tiki-Tiki” to ride on people’s postwar craving for all things American. Today, even without the “United American” tag, Tiki-Tiki remains one of the strongest vitamin brands in the Philippines.

Do Ejercito is one of the 50 Filipino CEOs featured in the book “Extraordinary: Stories for Aspiring Leaders” published by the Management Association of the Philippines.

He recounts the circumstances that led him to change the path Unilab was on. “Until about ten years ago, if you looked at the product portfolio of Unilab, we were very strong in over-the-counter drugs, but we were not very strong in prescription drugs.”

When Ejercito became President of the company in 1998, he had to contract with foreign companies so Unilab would have products to sell. “It was so difficult. Para kang nakikiusap lagi. We needed to expand our capability in R&D (research and development), so we could produce our own prescription products.”

When an executive from a multinational pharma told him they did not consider Unilab a serious competitor, Ejercito decided it was time to make the move. “Our total business then was only P6 billion. This year, we are breaking P30 billion.”

Unilab has also established profitable operations in other Southeast Asian countries, China, and India. It has become, as Ejercito puts it, a multinational in its own right. “There is no other pharma company in the world in a free market where one company has 20 percent market share, and we have it here,” he says of Unilab’s standing in the Philippines.

Unilab’s rise from corner drugstore to major Asian player is extraordinary, and Ejercito’s personal success story is no less exceptional.

Self-made man
The 63-year-old CEO was born to very poor parents in Cavite, the sixth of 13 children. None of his five older siblings finished college. “I was four years old when I was in grade one,” recalls Ejercito. “I was so tiny, very skinny. Gutom lagi eh. By 10 years old, I was in high school, then at fourteen, I started college at the University of the East.

“Our house was a small shanty in front of Cavite High School. I had to earn my allowance for the day. I would go to the market, buy recados for pancit, for halo-halo, then cook it. I’d open my tindahan, and then students would come. I would get about 90 centavos. Seventy centavos would go to pamasahe. I’d have 20 centavos left for a bottle of Coke and espasol. That was my lunch, my dinner—espasol. That’s why now, when my wife brings home espasol, I don’t want to see espasol!” Ejercito laughs.

By age 18, Ejercito graduated cum laude with a degree in accounting. His first job was junior auditor at a small firm. “I earned P2 per day for half a day’s work. I lasted two weeks. I was making more money in my small tindahan in the province.”
He then joined the accounting department of Procter & Gamble. “I was there for about one-and-a-half years, then I decided accounting wasn’t really the work I liked. By then, IBM was opening. I joined as a systems engineer.”

After five years, he decided to move again. “I was becoming very technical. I was the industry specialist for banking, connecting these branches to the head office computer. Sabi ko, being a specialist is the longest route to the top. So, I moved to Citibank. It was my account eh. Kinuha naman ako,” he laughs. “I stayed thirteen years.”

Ejercito rose all the way to country operations head of Citibank in the Philippines. After that, there was nowhere else to go except a foreign assignment. He was offered various positions in Hong Kong, Japan, London and New York, but his children’s flat refusal to move kept him in the country. He joined Unilab instead.

Ten years and many successes later, he still daydreams about future healthcare projects. “I want to put up a manufacturing plant to produce our oncology, or cancer products. ’Yung mga chemotherapy. Right now, we are importing that as finished product, and we’re having difficulty with sourcing. I also want to get into vaccines. Most countries would want to have their own vaccines, for security. Even countries like Vietnam have their own vaccine plants.”

The biotech field is one area Unilab has its eyes on. “The future of pharmaceuticals is in biotech, not chemical,” says Ejercito.

“The products you see now are all chemical-based. Biotechnology works on the cellular level, on the tissue, the DNA. We’ve ventured into that. We set up a plant in China and it’s a profitable business. We produce two products. One of them is the human growth hormone, which is used for children of short stature.”

The other product is the oral vaccine for cholera used by athletes and food handlers in the Beijing Olympics.

After more than 40 years managing various companies, Ejercito cites three reasons for failure in leadership in the book “Extraordinary: Stories for Aspiring Leaders”—1) developing a superstar complex; 2) not being able to gain people’s buy-in for a decision, then using rank to ram it down; and 3) not knowing how to manage down.

“The companies that stay very long, that live very long, are those that are aligned with society,” he remarks. “Their very existence is in the interest of society. We are here to stay for a very, very long time. By aligning ourselves with the needs of society, we hope society will appreciate us, and that will improve the chances that our company will survive for many generations.”

(More advice from Ejercito and other Filipino CEOs in “Extraordinary: Stories for Aspiring Leaders” available at National Bookstore and Powerbooks outlets.)

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LIVING ASIA CHANNEL - Coexistence (Santiago City)





This mini-docu aired on the Living Asia Channel from August 24-31, 2008. Trailer appears below, followed by excerpts from the narrative.



EAT, TRADE, PRAY: The Path to Coexistence in Santiago City
by Stephanie Dychiu

With more than 17 ethnolinguistic tribes in a population of less than 150,000, Santiago City can teach the world a thing or two about getting along. In this junction of the Cagayan Valley, commerce, cuisine, and creed are the keys to living in harmony.

In a small municipality eight hours north of Metro Manila, a simple canvas sign with the word “COEXIST” stands like the Statue of Liberty at the entrance of the town hall.

A closer look reveals the symbolism behind the spelling of the word. The “C” is the Islamic crescent moon, the “O” is the pagan pentacle, the “E” is Einstein’s formula E = MC squared, the “X” is the Jewish Star of David, the dot on the “I” is the Buddhist dharma wheel, the “S” is the yin yang symbol of Taoism, and the “T” is the cross of Christianity.

This is the Municipality of Santiago, for whom the presence of at least seventeen ethno-linguistic groups gives the word “coexist” a special significance.


Though part of the Cagayan Valley region—an area rich with some of the most fascinating caves, waterfalls, and islands in the country—Santiago takes singular pride in being an independent component city, one of only four in the Philippines. This means Santiago is not subject to the supervision of a provincial governor, and townsfolk enjoy the thrill of scribbling “Santiago City, Philippines”, no province needed, whenever they write down their addresses.

In recent years, the government of Santiago has organized an annual festival to celebrate the city’s remarkable ethnic diversity. Baptized “Pattaradday”, the Ibanag word for “unity”, the festival takes place every first week of May, when the city commemorates the time in 1743 when the Municipality of Santiago was first created by royal Spanish decree.

Hundreds of the best street dancers in the Philippines, from the Ibon-Ebun performers of Pampanga to the Pintaflores dancers of San Carlos City, Negros Occidental, gather in Santiago during Pattaradday to represent the various ethnic groups that have made the city home.

Santiago’s determination to carve out a unified identity from the many bloodlines that run through its veins is influenced by the role it plays in the entire Cagayan Valley Region.

Between the rambling peaks of the Sierra Madre, Cordillera, and Caraballo mountains flows the longest and largest river in the Philippines—the Cagayan River. Long before Spanish conquistador Don Juan de Salcedo landed in the area in 1572, the waters of the river already sustained many tribal settlements, one of which was the Ibanag, who named themselves after “Banag”, the native word for “river”.

Today, the Cagayan River is the geographic link that binds the provinces of Cagayan, Isabela, Nueva Vizcaya, and Quirino into one political unit, the Cagayan Valley Region. Of the four main cities of the region, Santiago is the closest by land to Metro Manila. It is also the meeting point of the main roads of the four provinces of the Cagayan Valley .

With travel and trade in the region dependent on land transport, Santiago’s location has turned out to be its biggest advantage, enabling it to become the gateway to the farming, caving, hiking, and gamefishing treasures of the Cagayan Valley.

Santiago’s economic future is practically assured, but it needs to protect the many distinct cultures that have thrived in the city, which can be diluted by the intoxicating march of progress. By celebrating the Pattaradday Festival every year, Santiago’s people are able to remember their multicultural roots and keep their traditions alive.

* * *
Commerce has a way of putting people of different backgrounds on common ground. Even at the public market, the unifying magic of Pattaradday can be seen. An inspection of the goods for sale shows bounty from the sea caught in Pangasinan, gleaming white rice grown in Cagayan province, and, of course, Santiago’s very own panutsa, or stiff cakes of hardened sugarcane syrup.

The odd mix of food popular in the city also shows the multifacted origins of Santiago’s people. The Ilonggo import chicken inasal, or roast chicken, is a staple. Indeed, this area far away from the original home of chicken inasal in Western Visayas has developed its own brand of the roast chicken, called “Mang Pandoy’s Chicken Inasal”, with outlets not just in Santiago but also in other parts of Northern Luzon, such as Cauayan and Tuguegarao.

Challenging the domination of chicken inasal, roasted chicken, in the palates of Santiaguenos is goat meat or kambing. Many kambingan, or restaurants specializing in goat meat, have come and gone in Santiago, but none have been able to rival the success of the very first kambingan on #48 City Road. Lest anyone forgets, the sign out front bears a reminder that it is “The Original Place”. This kambingan is said to be the best kambingan between Santiago and Bicol, the acknowledged mecca of chevon connoisseurs. There are only three dishes on the menu, all made from goat meat, of course. Kaldereta is a golden yellow stew of tomato sauce, cheese, garlic, onions, pepper, and peas. Kilawin has strips of meat cooked, not over fire, but in a mixture of vinegar, chili, onions, and ginger. And Papaitan is a bowl of entrails floating in a murky green soup of bile.

* * *
. . . the church with the largest congregation is the parish of St. James. In this church, the broad-minded tenets of Pattaradday are carried on even to matters of faith. Mass is delivered in three different languages—Tagalog, Ilokano, and English. As the language used by the priest to deliver the homily changes, so the language used by the choir to sing also shifts.

The St. James Parish also distributes the Holy Bible written in Ibanag. True to their native word Pattaradday, which means “unity”, the Ibanag are said to be the most adaptable and most open to assimilation among all indigenous Filipino tribes. They were instrumental to the spread of Christianity in the Cagayan Valley region, because it was their language that the early Spanish missionaries were able to learn and propagate even to other tribes.

The innate adaptability of their Ibanag ancestors may explain why the mostly Catholic Santiaguenos are able to maintain an uncommon openness toward people of other cultures and religious beliefs. For a small city that is not even on the route map of local airlines, the number of well-established non-Christian religious communities in Santiago is significant.

The Omar Ben Abdul Azez Mosque has a good-sized congregation. During Martial Law in the Seventies, many Muslims came to Santiago to escape persecution in Mindanao.

Alibsar Adoma, also known as Alex, came from Marawi and has integrated very well with the community. He has even been elected president of his neighborhood in Santiago.

"Ako po si Alibsar Alex Adoma, pumunta ako dito nung year 1976. Ako po ay purok
president dito sa Malvar . . . Pumunta kami dito sa Santiago para
maghanapbuhay. Tsaka maganda rin dito sa Santiago dahil ang mga Muslim
dito ay hindi naman inaapi. Lahat naman ng napuntang Muslim dito sa Santiago ay,
maganda talaga."
Even as they participate in the everyday life of the city, the Muslims of Santiago are ever conscious of preserving the heritage of the land they left behind. They continue to pray five times a day, and send their Santiago-born children to the madrasa of the mosque to learn Arabic.

Ahmad Elias is a second-generation Muslim living in Santiago.

"Ako si Ahmad Elias, Jr. Bale, pinanganak na ako dito sa Santiago. Ngayon
employed ako sa North Eastern College, nagtratrabaho ako diyan as secretary ng
College of Law and at the same time part-time instructor ng mga ibang colleges
dito sa Santiago."
Living in Santiago and working in the schools, Ahmad is surrounded by Christians most of the time, but he does not feel different from them.

"Hindi naman kasi wala naman akong dapat isipin na iba ako except we differ in
faith at siyempre sa culture . . . wala ring pagkakaiba except of course na
napunta kami sa ibang bayan na may kanya-kanyang kultura din . . . yung
pamumuhay dito ng mga Muslim ay maganda naman kasi nagkakaisa kami, walang
masyadong di pagkakaunawaan lalo na sa ibang mga kultura dito kasi kami mga
Muslim nagpunta dito sa Santiago para humanap ng magandang kabuhayan."
The Chinese community of Santiago also have their own place of worship, in a Taoist temple. On the ceiling of the temple, the yin yang symbol reminds visitors of the Taoist belief in unity of opposites as the path to achieving order in the universe. The philosophy of Taoism was shaped during a time of heavy feudal warfare in China, and as such, many of its teachings are about the goal of ending conflict.

The Taoist principle of peaceful balance and unity, similar to Pattaradday and the teachings of Islam, is further echoed by a group of Indians who gather regularly at the Sikh temple in the city. Santiago seems a rather random place for a Sikh temple to thrive, so it is surprising to hear that the temple has been around for 25 years. What is even more surprising is to hear the Indians speaking in Ilokano and Tagalog. A number of them are actually more comfortable speaking these dialects than English.

Most of the Indians in Santiago are from Punjab, and they came to the Philippines for business. Every Sunday, they gather for a meal and religious service at the Gurudwara Jagat Sudhar temple. “Gurudwara” literally means “doorway to God”, and the Sikhs believe that every gurudwara they have, no matter where it is in the world, should be open to all, regardless of race or religion. They do not believe in the caste system. Here in Santiago, they welcome anyone who wishes to know more about their faith.

"Our religion is also a religion like other religions in the world. Our Sikh
religion give the message to the humanity, we are all equal, we are all the son
of god. And give the message to us that unity, and should be proud-less, and
should be not greedy, because god send us in the earth to do good. Cooperate to
each other, help each other, is not only for the Sikhs, but to every human
being, even though he belongs to the other religion, our Sikh religion is stable
on truth, and give the message of truth to the human being. And that’s why
whenever we are going to the church, and our temple, our Sikh temple, ladies are on the one side and gents are on the one side. And we are sitting on the floor.
It mean that we are all equal. No rich, no poor, no high, no low. Everybody is
equal. That’s why equality is the most proper and right way in our Sikh
religion. That’s why every religion, every person, can join and come here
in our Sikh temple."
In this gurudwara in Santiago, in the season of Pattaradday, where Punjabis open their doors to strangers and speak in Tagalog and Ilokano, the meaning of unity, tolerance, and coexistence has never seemed clearer.

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